მცხეთის სალობიეს საოცარი ისტორია – ლეგენდა პუშკინზე, რომელიც დიდი ბიზნესის საწყისად იქცა 

მცხეთის სალობიე, მთელს ქვეყანაში ცნობილი და ბევრისთვის საყვარელი ადგილია. საოჯახო ტიპის რესტორანი ტურისტების აქტიური მასპინძელია. სალობიე დროდადრო ფართოვდება, მაგრამ უცვლელი რჩება ასორტიმენტი, შეუცვლელია მთავარი კერძიც – ქოთნის ლობიო და მჭადი.

შპს “საჭაშნიკეს” დამფუძნებელი დიმიტრი ალავიძე, პირველივე დღეებიდან უდგას სათავეში მცხეთის სალობიეს და უკვე 50 წელზე მეტია მის განვითარებაზე ზრუნავს, შესაბამისად საინტერესო ამბავსაც ბევრს მოისმენთ მისგან.

რაოდენ გასაკვირიც არ უნდა იყოს, სალობიეს ადგილას თავდაპირველად საღვეზელე გაუხსნიათ, სადაც განსაკუთრებული რეცეპტით აცხობდნენ მცხეთურ ღვეზელს.

​საღვეზელეს გახსნასაც, თავის მხრივ, პატარა ლეგენდა აქვს. ყველაფერი XIX საუკუნეში დაიწყო, როდესაც საქართველოში რუსი მწერალი, ალექსანდრე პუშკინი ჩამოვიდა და მცხეთის რაიონის ერთ-ერთ სოფელ კარსანში გავლისას გზაზე, წყაროდან წყალი დაულევია. ეს ფაქტი პუშკინმა პირად ჩანაწერებში შეიტანა. საუკუნის შემდეგ, 1967 წელს, როდესაც საქართველოში რუსეთიდან ჩამოსული რუსი მწერლებისა და საზოგადო მოღვაწეების დელეგაცია ესტუმრა და მაშინდელმა საბჭოთა მთავრობის წევრებმა სტუმრები მცხეთაში გაასეირნეს, ლეგენდაც დაიბადა. სტუმრებს აბრაზე სოფლის დასახელება – კარსანი ამოუკითხავთ და მაშინვე პუშკინი გახსენებიათ. დაინტერესებულან, სად იყო ის ცნობილი წყარო, სადაც პუშკინმა წყურვილი მოიკლა. მასპინძლები არ დაბნეულან და იქვე ტერიტორიაზე მიუთითებიათ, – აქა და აქ იყო ის ცნობილი წყაროო.

ასე გაჩნდა ლეგენდა პუშკინისა და მისი წყაროს შესახებ. საბჭოთა საქართველოს ცენტრალური კომიტეტის პირველმა მდივანმა, ვასილ მჟავანაძემ რუსი მწერლების გასტუმრების შემდეგ იმ ადგილას, ოჯახური ტიპის კვების ობიექტის ჩადგმის განკარგულება გასცა.

” 1965 წელს თბილისში გავხსენით რესტორანი “მცხეთა”, სადაც ვმუშაობდი. ვასილ მჟავანაძის დავალებით 4-5 თვეში აშენდა მცხეთაში საღვეზელე, რომელიც “მცხეთის” ფილიალი იყო. შენობის დაპროექტება ლერი ნამგალაძეს დაავალეს, მე მომავლინეს აქ, რომ თვალი მედევნებინა მშენებლობისთვის. მჟავანაძეს უნდოდა, რომ აქ მსუბუქი კვების ობიექტი ყოფილიყო, გავლისას ადამიანი რომ წაიხემსებდა. ცხვებოდა ღვეზელი და ყველიანი. ხოლო ღვინო ყველა ასორტიმენტის იყო, რაც საქართველოში არსებობდა”, – იხსენებს დიმიტრი ალავიძე.

მცხეთის ​ღვეზელს ცალკე ისტორია აქვს. ძველად, მცხეთაში, ჯერ კიდევ საბჭოთა ხელისუფლების დამყარებამდე, ყოფილა ერთი კაცი, გვარად გეგეჭკორი, რომელსაც მატარებლების სადგურთან საღვეზელე ჰქონდა გახსნილი. მისი ბიზნესი მგზავრებზე იყო გათვლილი. მატარებელი რომ გაჩერდებოდა, მგზავრები ღვეზელის საყიდლად ჩამოდიოდნენ და მისი ღვეზელიც განთქმული იყო მთელს საქართველოში.

“თავიდან არ ვიცოდით ამ ღვეზელის რეცეპტი. მოვძებნდეთ ქალი, რომელიც მაშინ უკვე 95 წლის იყო. რკინიგზის სადგურთან ცხოვრობდა. მან გვასწავლა ღვეზელი რეცეპტი. კეთდებოდა ხბოს ხორცით, იწვებოდა ერბოში, შიგთავსში ხორცთან ერთად მოხარშული კვერცხის ცილას ვურევდით. მართალია, დღეს იმ რეცეპტით აღარ მზადდება ჩვენი ღვეზელი, მაგრამ ნაწილობრივ მაინც შენარჩუნებულია ის ტრადიცია. ჩვენი ღვეზელები განთქმულია. იმ დროს, როცა ჩვენ დავიწყეთ ამ ღვეზელის ცხობა, მისი გამეორების უფლება არც ერთ რესტორანს არ ჰქონდა”, – გვითხრა დიმიტრი ალავიძემ.

მცხეთის საღვეზელეს შენობის გახსნას ვასილ მჟავანაძე უნდა დასწრებოდა, მაგრამ იმ დროს ბორჯომში ისვენებდა და ობიექტის გახსნაზე ჩასვლა 3 დღით დაუგვიანია. ელოდნენ მჟავანაძეს საბჭოთა მთავრობის წევრები, ელოდნენ და წასულან. მესამე დღეს, ნაშუადღევს, საღვეზელსგან ჩამოდგა “ჩაიკა“.

“შემოვიდა მჟავანაძე მეუღლესთან და დაცვის ერთ თანამშრომელთან ერთად. დასხდნენ, ღვეზელი და ხაჭაპური მიირთვეს, ღვინოც დალიეს. მერე მითხრა, მზარეულს დაუძახეო. დალოცა მზარეული, ხვავი და ბარაქა უსურვა, 25 მანეთიანი ამოდო თეფშის ქვეშ და წავიდა. მეორე დღეს გადაივსო აქაურობა ხალხით. მოაწყდა სტუმრები და დავიწყეთ მუშაობა. ერთი კვირის თავზე ისევ გამოიარა მჟავანაძემ და აქაურობა ხალხით გადავსებული რომ ნახა, ძალიან გაუხარდა”, – იხსენებს ბატონი დიმიტრი.

იმ დროისთვის სალობიეს ეზოში პუშკინის წყაროც ააშენეს და მემორიალური დაფაც განათავსეს. “აქ დალია პუშკინმა წყალი” – ლეგენდა უკვე არსებობდა.
გავიდა 3 თვე და მენიუში ლობიო გაჩნდა. როგორც შპს “საჭაშნიკეს” დამფუძნებელმა გვითხრა, საჭირო იყო ასორტიმენტის გამდიდრება.

” რესტორნისთვის საჭირო იყო ასორტიმენტი, რათა გაზრდილიყო ბრუნვა და მოვიფიქრეთ, ქოთნის ლობიო და მჭადი დაგვემატებინა. ქოთნებს მცხეთის კერამიკურ ქარხანაში გვიმზადებდნენ. კარგი შედეგი მივიღეთ”, – იხსენებს დიმიტრი ალავიძე „მთავართან“.

მოგვიანებით გაჩნდა იდეა, სალობიეს შენობისთვის საბანკეტო დარბაზი მიემატებინათ, თუმცა რაიკომმა მშენებლობა სრულად ვერ დააფინანსა და დახმარება სალობიეს სთხოვეს. “ჩვენ არაფერი გვკითხეს ისე დაიწყეს მშენებლობა. მიანგრ-მოანგრიეს აქაურობა და ბოლოს გვითხრეს, თქვენ თუ არ დაგვეხმარეთ ფული არ გვაქვსო, დავეხმარეთ და ავაშენეთ. რომ ავაშენეთ და უნდა გახსნილიყო საბანკეტო დარბაზი, ამ დროს საბჭოთა კავშირის სათავეში მოვიდა მიხეილ გორბაჩოვი და “მშრალი კანონი” შემოიღო. საერთოდ აიკრძალა დალევა. ჩვენც ავდექით და საბანკეტო დარბაზის ნაცვლად, ახალ შენობაში სახინკლე გავხსენით, რადგან დარბაზი უმოქმედო იყო”, – აცხადებს დიმიტრი ალავიძე.

​ხინკალი
და ლობიო ცალკე სამზარეულოებში მზადდება, თუმცა მენიუ, რესტორნის ყველას სივრცისთვის ერთნაირია. სალობიე კიდევ რამდენიმე შენობას მოიცავს. ესენია: ოდა, საშაშხე, მარანი და თანამედროვე ტიპის კაფე-ბარი.

მარანი ძველი, ტრადიციული და ქართული ორნამენტებით არის გადაწყვეტილი. სადაც არის ქვევრები;  უზარმაზარი, 400-500 წლის თხილის ხისგან გამოთლილი საწნახელი, სადაც ღვინო შიდა მოხმარებისთვის იწურება. იშვიათი თხილის უზარმაზარი ხე, წლების წინ, რაჭიდან ჩამოუტანიათ. იქვეა სხვადასხვა ძველი ქართული სამუშაო იარაღები და ქართული ხალხური მუსიკალური საკრავები. აქ ნახავთ რაჭულ გუდასტვირს, ყაბალახს, ჩოხა-ახალუხს, მიწაში ჩაყრილ ქვევრებს, ტიკსა და უამრავ საინტერესო ნივთს.

ეს ყველაფერი 50-წლიან, ტრადიციულ მცხეთის სალობიეში ხდება, სადაც ძველი, ტრადიციული, ქართული და თანამედროვე გარემო ერთად შეგიძლიათ ნახოთ და რომელიც ერთგვარ მუზეუმ დარბაზებს წარმოადგენს.

მცხეთის სალობიეში თავდაპირველად 5-6- კაცი მუშაობდა, დღეს კი დაახლოებით 120-150 ადამიანი ჰყავთ დასაქმებული. ყველაფერი ამ საინტერესო ისტორიით არ სრულდება, 50-წლიანი ისტორიის მქონე მცხეთის სალობიე სტუმრებისთვის, როგორც ადგილობრივებისთვის, ისე უცხოელი ტურისტებისთვის, სამომავლოდ კიდევ ერთი საინტერესო პროექტის შეთავაზებას გეგმავს.

ავტორი: შორენა პაპაშვილი
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414 Thoughts to “მცხეთის სალობიეს საოცარი ისტორია – ლეგენდა პუშკინზე, რომელიც დიდი ბიზნესის საწყისად იქცა ”

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